KitchenAid error code · No heat / element fault
KitchenAid Oven Not Heating: Bake or Broil Element Failure
KitchenAid electric oven not heating usually means a failed bake or broil element, a relay on the control board, or sensor wiring. Here is how to tell.
A KitchenAid electric oven that runs but will not heat (or heats weakly) most often has a failed bake or broil element, a stuck heating relay on the control board, or a sensor/wiring problem. A burned-out element typically shows visible breaks, blistering, or no glow.
No heat / element fault, explained
On electric KitchenAid ovens the bake element heats from the bottom and the broil element from the top. The control closes a relay to energize the element and uses the RTD sensor to regulate temperature. If an element opens electrically, a relay fails, or power to one leg is lost, the oven displays no error but never reaches temperature. Some generations may post an over-temp or sensor code instead.
Severity:Service recommended · Appliance:Wall Oven
Frequently asked
KitchenAid No heat / element fault — questions
Why is my KitchenAid oven not heating but the display works?
Most often the bake or broil element has burned out, or a relay on the control board that switches the element has failed. The control still powers up and shows the time even though no heat is produced.
How can I tell if the oven element is bad?
When cool, inspect it for a break, blister, or bright burned spot, and watch whether it glows orange when heating. A technician confirms by metering it for an open circuit.
Why does only my broiler or only my bake work?
That usually points to one failed element or a lost 240-volt leg from a half-tripped double breaker. If both elements are good, check the breaker fully off and on.
Is it safe to use the oven if one element still works?
It is generally not a hazard, but a burned element terminal can arc, so if you see or smell burning, stop using it and have it inspected.
Could the temperature sensor cause no heat?
Yes. A failed RTD sensor can stop the control from calling for heat, sometimes with an F3 code, so the sensor is checked along with the elements.
How much does an element repair cost?
Our diagnostic visit is a flat $89, applied to the repair, and element or control board replacements carry a 365-day warranty. Call (650) 668-1554 to schedule.
Why No heat / element fault appears
Elements fail with age as the heating coil oxidizes and finally breaks, often with a visible blister, bright spot, or split. The control board relay that switches the element can stick open or weld. A lost 240-volt leg from a tripped half of a double breaker leaves only the broil or only the bake working. Burned element terminal connections are also common.
How No heat / element fault shows up
- Oven runs and the display works but food does not cook
- Bake element does not glow orange (or only the broil glows)
- Visible break, blister, or bright spot on the element
- Long preheat that never reaches the set temperature
- Burning smell or arcing at the element terminals
What usually causes it
- Burned-out bake or broil element (open circuit)
- Stuck or failed heating relay on the control board
- Lost 240V leg from a half-tripped double breaker
- Burned or loose element terminal connections
- Faulty temperature sensor preventing the control from calling for heat
Which part No heat / element fault points to
- Bake element — Replaced when the lower element is open or visibly broken and the oven will not heat
- Broil element — Replaced when the upper element is open or the broil function does not heat
- Control board (ERC) / heating relay — Replaced when the relay that switches the element has failed
- Element terminal connectors — Replaced when the terminals are burned or arcing at the element ends
What you can safely check
- Check the breaker; reset both halves of the double breaker fully off then on
- Visually inspect the element for a break, blister, or bright spot when cool
- Confirm whether only bake or only broil fails, which narrows the cause
- Power-cycle at the breaker for two minutes to clear a control glitch
When No heat / element fault needs a technician
Confirming an open element versus a failed control relay requires metering the element resistance and the relay output at 240 volts. A technician can isolate the cause and replace the element or board safely, including burned terminal blocks that can arc.
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